It’s true – earlier Twin Cam 88 engines had a huge flaw in their design, but it can be quite easily fixed with a cam chain tensioner upgrade.
At this point in time (nearly two decades after the issue), the overwhelming majority of earlier Twin Cam 88 engines have had this issue fixed and already have a cam chain tensioner upgrade installed.
But if you bought a Harley Davidson with a Twin Cam 88 and have no idea whether it has the cam chain tensioner upgrade installed, or if you decided to install it on your bike, then this article is for you.
In this article, we’re going to take a look at the Twin Cam 88 cam chain tensioner upgrade cost, how to save money on the installation, and more!
Also Read: Harley Twin Cam Years To Avoid Like The Plague
Why The Early Twin Cam 88 Cam Chain Tensioners Failed
Let’s first quickly talk about why it happened.
The real reason why the early Twin Cam 88 cam chain tensioners failed so soon is still under debate, even decades later.
Some mechanics speculate that the chain was the problem because it had sharp outer plates, others speculate that the follower shoes were made out of poor quality materials, but the most likely culprit might have been the tensioner itself.

Whichever the case it was, the plastic chain followers would get shredded by the chain and leave tiny plastic shavings.
All of those tiny plastic shavings would then enter the oil stream, get sucked in by the oil pump, and clog everything up. This made the engines lose oil pressure and even caused catastrophic engine failure in severe cases.
Luckily, the issue was fixed in 2006 for Dyna models and 2007 for the rest.
There was no recall for the cam chain tensioner issue, even though it was a pretty big deal at the time.
Twin Cam 88 Cam Chain Tensioner Upgrade Cost
The average Twin Cam 88 cam chain tensioner upgrade cost is $1200 to $2000 (in 2022).
Let’s break it down.
First, you’ll need the hydraulic cam chain tensioner kit, which costs around $400 to $500. Next, you’ll need a spacer kit (not required for 99-00 Touring, Softail, and Dyna), a drive gear retention kit, and a cam service kit – around $230 for those.
If you’ve got a 99 Dyna or touring, then be prepared to spend even more, as you will also need a splined cam drive sprocket and a cam support plate oil control kit – $50 for both.
As for labor, the whole job takes around 4 hours from start to finish. Depending on the shop and their labor rate, you can expect to pay $400 to $600 for labor.
Now, I know what you’re thinking – That’s a lot of parts!
True, but in reality, this is just the bare minimum, as a lot of owners also replace the cam bearings, tappets, pushrods, and even the cams. It makes sense since the mechanic has to tear down a large part of the valvetrain anyway, which saves you a lot of labor.
Maybe your Twin Cam 88 is tired and the valvetrain components are worn, or maybe you want to install a Stage 2 upgrade? This would be the perfect time to decide.
Of course, you certainly don’t need to do that, and your Twin Cam 88 will be just fine with the cam chain tensioner upgrade alone (assuming that the parts aren’t too worn). But if you decide to go for it, then you can expect to pay another $500 or so.
How to Save Money on the Cam Chain Tensioner Upgrade
There are a few ways you can save money on the cam chain tensioner upgrade.
First, if you’re relatively handy, then you can do it yourself and save around $400 – $600. Of course, this is only if you’re confident in your abilities and have all the necessary tools.
If you don’t want to do it yourself but still want to save some money, then you can try to find an independent shop that will do it for less. Just be sure to get a few quotes first and compare.
Just stay away from the dealership If you want to save money.
Lastly, replace only the bare minimum. If your parts are still in decent condition, then there’s no need to replace them. Just do the cam chain tensioner upgrade and be done with it.
This will save you a lot of money, as buying all new parts can get really expensive, really fast.
How to Tell Whether the Cam Chain Tensioner Is Failing on Your Twin Cam 88
The only way to check whether the cam chain tensioner is going bad is to remove the cam chest cover and do a quick visual inspection
It’s really easy to remove the cam chest cover and the whole process of inspecting the tensioner won’t take more than 15 minutes.

Simply get a quick look at the plastic cam chain follower shoes and check if they’re badly worn.
If the followers are in good condition, then everything is in order and you don’t need to replace the tensioner.
If, however, the followers are pretty worn or damaged, then it’s time to replace the tensioner.
It’s really that simple.
If you want to be 100% sure, then you can always take it to a shop and have them inspect it for you. But in all honesty, the inspection is so quick and easy that there’s really no need to.
Conclusion
The average cost of a cam chain tensioner upgrade for a Twin Cam 88 is $1200 to $2000. This includes the cost of parts and labor.
If you’re handy, then you can save around $400 to $600 by doing it yourself. Otherwise, try to find an independent shop that will do it for less.
Lastly, don’t forget to regularly check the follower shoes even if you did the cam chain tensioner upgrade. This will help you avoid any future issues.
I hope this article was helpful. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below.

Nick Kowalski is a diesel mechanic by trade, but his passion lies in motorcycles.
He’s been riding them since he was just a wee lad, and he loves restoring old Japanese street bikes and ATVs in his spare time.
Nick is an adrenaline junkie at heart, and he loves nothing more than hitting the open road on his motorcycle.
my ’04 is running fine, at 45K miles. Replaced the tensioners at 18K miles, and service kit. Inspected at 42K miles, pads only worn 20-25%. Can’t justify the cost of the hydraulic upgrade, so I’m planning on replacing the tensioners, lifters (Comp Vthunder DS1003), inner bearings and support plate bearing. Reusing the solid push rods, cams, stock support plate and oil pump. Should be good for another 25K miles (or 6-7 years, @3500 miles per year). Routing fluid changes at 3-3.5K miles.
I’ll inspect the pad at 10K mile intervals.
Any comments or warnings on this approach?
Hi,
That’s a solid plan. I think you should inspect the pads sooner, like every 5k miles if possible, other than that I say go for it and have fun!